SIMONE MORO

Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist, writer and aviator.

He holds the record of the highest number of ascensions in winter on the eight thousand with the climbs of the four peaks: Shisha Pangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat. He climbed to the summit of eight of the fourteen eight thousand. He has reached four times the summit of Everest of which he also completed the South-North crossing in May 2006. Many of these ascents were accomplished “with speed”. To his credit there are also six ascents on peaks of 7000 meters and as many on peaks of 6000 meters.

In 2001 he tried with Denis Urubko the chaining of Lhotse and Everest. The night before going on the summit of Lhotse, while he is in a tent at 8000 meters with Urubko and other mountaineers of another expedition, he receives a request for help for Tom Moores, a young English climber who fell from the wall. Not recommended in the enterprise by the various mountaineers present, Moro decides to leave, alone and at night, in search of the mountaineer. He finds him wounded, without gloves and crampons.

He ties him and pulls him up for 200 meters in altitude to avoid being exposed to avalanches, then transports him to the tents. For this rescue Moro receives in 2002 the gold medal for civil valor and other awards. The next day he abandons the ascent of Lhotse at 8300 meters because he used up too much energy in the night. Urubko climbs to the top of the Lhotse by himself, back down to the South Hill, but then as a sign of friendship towards Moro abandons Everest’s ascent stating: “We are a team, we will try again together”.